How do you secure this polytunnel ? Also what is the recommendation for the floor?
1. Best ways to secure this polytunnel
Because this model has a simple steel frame, people usually secure it using a combination of:
- Burying the cover skirt: Most covers have extra material around the bottom. Dig a shallow trench (about a spade depth) all around, tuck the loose skirt into the trench and backfill with soil. This greatly improves wind resistance.
- Staking/anchoring the frame into the ground at several points – especially the corners and along each side.
- Adding internal weight (raised beds, paving slabs, bags of compost) to stop the frame lifting.
Typical tie-down method:
- Place 2–3 solid anchors (spikes or buried posts) on each side of the tunnel.
- Run a strap over the top of the tunnel and hook or tie it to the anchors each side.
- Tension the strap so it’s snug but not crushing the frame.
2. Recommended floor setup
The floor really depends on how you plan to use the tunnel, but here are the common and practical options:
- Bare soil with paths – Most common if you’re planting into the ground. You can leave beds as soil and create walking paths with bark, gravel or slabs so you’re not in mud.
- Membrane plus gravel or slabs – If you’re using pots and grow bags only:
- Lay a weed-control membrane (we don’t have one in this set of results, but any garden weed membrane will do).
- Cover with gravel, bark, or paving slabs to create a clean, non-muddy surface.
- Benches with capillary matting – If you’re growing mostly in trays and pots on staging capillary matting can help, this doesn’t cover the whole floor, but it’s excellent on tables or staging inside the tunnel for easier watering and a tidier setup.
